There is something–no, many things–to be said about a bespoke suit. A bespoke suit flatters every wearer, never goes out of style, and has the power all on its own to imbue a sense of confidence and prominence in even the meekest of gentlemen. When you don a bespoke suit, you will instantly feel like a king amongst men.
But no one ever said becoming king would be easy.
A unique, perfectly tailored suit is not an immediate thing. You cannot buy one off the racks. No, to get a perfect bespoke suit, you will have to work (with your tailor, of course) for it. And doing so means much more than just showing up to any old tailor down the street. Ask any sartorial pro, and he will tell you that your first visit to a tailor is akin to a rite of passage, much like your first first date or your first car, so you’ll have to do it right. And by that, we mean, you’re gonna have to know how to talk to your tailor so you can create the perfect suit. Read on for advice on everything you’ll need to know so you can see eye-to-eye with your tailor, ask for exactly what it is that you want, and ultimately, get an awesome garment as a result.
Decide What Kind of Suit You Need
What is the Purpose of this Suit?
First, ask yourself what the purpose of this suit is. Are you seeking out a bespoke suit for a wedding? A funeral? A court appearance? A new job? Or just because? Tell your tailor.
Study Up On Fabrics.
There are a lot of veritable suit fabrics out there waiting to be discovered. As overwhelming as that may sound, there are a few key fabrics you’ll want to stick to, especially for your first bespoke suit (which makes things a little easier). Your suit should be good for three seasons and be composed of a fabric lightweight enough that you won’t overheat but sturdy enough that you’ll also be comfortable if it’s a little chilly. Here are the best fabrics to look for:
Worsted Wool: Worsted wool is the most popular wool used for suits, as it is highly adaptable to temperature change, wears well, and gives off that slight shine that you find in most suits on the market. It is extremely versatile and great for solid-colored suits.
Super 120s: This fabric is a bit more of a luxurious lightweight wool. It’s extremely ideal for use in a three-season suit.
Mohair: This fabric is silky and a bit more textured than the first two options.
Flannel: Flannel is typically made out of worsted wool, and is similar to tweed and herringbone in terms of look, but tends to be softer to the touch. Most tailors will have a wide selection of colors and weights, meaning that you’ll most likely be able to find a nice, breathable flannel that you’ll be comfortable in during the spring and fall months.
Two- Or Three-Piece?
Do you just care for the suit jacket and trousers, or would you like a matching vest to go with it? Traditionally, 2-piece suits are less formal (pictured above right), and 3-piece suits are more formal (pictured above left). 3-piece suits can be worn to high brow gatherings like weddings and dinner parties, will keep you warmer, and most importantly can become a 2-piece suit with ease (just remove the vest)! If you don’t need all the formality or live in a warmer climate, a standard 2-piece suit might be a better option. Plus, 2-piece suits are cheaper.
We recommend getting a 3-piece suit simply because it’s more versatile and can be worn with or without the vest. Again, it’s all up to you.